Soup Weather for Sure!

This was my column for this week for the Telfair Enterprise. Maybe these soup recipes will come in hand for all this crazy cold weather.

Mulligatawny Soup has its roots in British Colonial India.

BLT (Bacon, Leek, Tomato) & Potato Soup is a hearty potato soup with a little different twist from the usual.

U.S. Senate Navy Bean Soup has been on the Senate restaurant menu since the early twentieth century. One version can be traced to 1903.

Soup, the ultimate comfort food

Do you have a kinder, more adaptable friend in the food world than soup? Who soothes you when you are ill? Who refuses to leave you when you are impoverished and stretches its resources to give a hearty sustenance and cheer? Who warms you in the winter and cools you in the summer? Yet who also is capable of doing honor to your richest table and impressing your most demanding guests? Soup does its loyal best, no matter what undignified conditions are imposed upon it. You don't catch steak hanging around when you're poor and sick, do you?  ~ Miss Manners

Nothing seems to be quite as comforting as a steaming hot bowl of soup on a cold, nasty day. It is the ultimate comfort food and warms us from the inside out as nothing else seems to do and considering the weather forecast for this first week in January, this is the perfect time to cook some up. Furthermore, experts are now confirming what our mothers and grandmothers have always known, that chicken soup really does have real medicinal value.

I am not usually a soup eater but I have a daughter who would eat it three times a day and never complain. It isn’t that I don’t like it. It’s just a dish I rarely think about. I do enjoy it in cold weather though, and if the year continues the way it came in, we certainly will have lots of “soup weather” ahead of us before spring arrives.

Soup can be as expensive as you want to make it or can easily be fitted into a thriftier budget. Its versatility also works well for working parents. It can be eaten as a snack, a first course, an accompaniment to sandwiches or a complete meal in itself. It’s also adaptable to time schedules. It can take 15 minutes or it can be cooked all day, depending on individual recipes. Just find one that fits into your time schedule.

The word comes from the same source as the English term "sop," meaning a piece of bread soaked in liquid. (Of course, sop means a whole other thing in the South!) Soup replaced sop in common parlance about the same time that people began serving the heated liquid without the bread.

Historians have discovered that man knew about boiling long before the invention of earthenware pottery around 6,000 BC. Inventive prehistoric man found that bamboo trees filled with clay, reptile shells or the stomachs of slain animals all made perfect vessels in which to boil liquid filled with fresh meat over a hot fire.

Anthropological evidence, including residue found stuck to pots, tells us man was regularly consuming soup by the Iron and Bronze Ages. Ancient Romans ate soup, including a type of fish broth cooked in wine and spices, and the Greeks were familiar with soup as well.

Soup has come a long way since then and is not necessarily even considered a hot dish any more. Chilled fruit soups are considered the perfect accompaniment for light fare such as salads and grilled dishes in hot weather.

Probably the best thing about soup is that with a meaty bone or a bit of ground beef or broth, some leftover veggies and seasonings, anyone can create a quick, delicious vegetable soup. This type soup, along with many others, requires little else outside your normal kitchen inventory. And I suppose stews and chili are technically considered soup but I prefer something more traditional (thinner) most of the time. Either variety is good any time but especially for a light meal or for when you just need to take the chill out of your bones.

I still consider my late sister-in-law Sarah’s wonderful chicken soup that none of us have ever been able to duplicate as a perfect example of homemade soup. It was light but filling, perfect in cold weather and in deference to the anticipated winter weather ahead and January being National Soup Month, I am only featuring hardy recipes here. Mulligatawny soup is one of the heartier, spicy ones even though there are lighter versions.

With a known history of at least 300 years, Mulligatawny Soup or Stew is one dish that has stood the test of time. The word mulligatawny is the Anglicized version of the Tamil words for "pepper water" or "pepper broth." It became popular with employees of the East India Company stationed in India during colonial times. When they returned home, they brought the recipe back with them to England as well as other members of the Commonwealth, most notably Australia.

It was a rich curried soup originally made with peppers, hence the name. It has changed to suit differing tastes in Western culture, and has gone through many variations at various times and places. It is usually based on a chicken stock but also made of mutton or vegetable stock and curry with cream, pieces of chicken, onion, celery, apples and almonds and garnished with rice. The cream in the first versions was very likely coconut milk.

Vegetarian versions may contain lentils, tomatoes, cucumbers, apples, rice and fresh coconut. Australians also like to add tomatoes and bacon and yogurt is sometimes used instead of cream or coconut milk. Today’s Mulligatawny bears little resemblance to the original but there are some recipes closer than others.

Spicy Mulligatawny Soup

1 T. ghee (clarified butter) or vegetable oil

1 onion, chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 t. grated fresh ginger

2 green chile peppers, chopped

1/4 t. ground cinnamon

1/4 t. ground cloves

2 t. ground coriander seed

1-1/2 t. ground cumin

1 t. ground turmeric

4 pods cardamom, bruised

1 T. chopped fresh curry

1 carrot, chopped

1 apple - peeled, cored, and chopped

1 large potato, peeled and diced

1 c. dhal (red lentils), rinsed, drained

8 c. chicken broth

1 T. tamarind concentrate

1 T. lemon juice

2 c. coconut milk

2 T. chopped fresh cilantro

1/3 c. crushed almonds

Heat ghee or vegetable oil in large pan (use low heat); cook onion, garlic, ginger, chilies, spices and curry leaves, stirring, until onion is browned lightly and mixture is fragrant. Do not over brown the onion or else it will give the soup will taste burnt.

Add carrot, apple, potato, dhal (red lentils), and chicken stock to pan; simmer, covered, for about 15 minutes or until vegetables are just tender. Discard cardamom pods and curry leaves. Blend or process soup mixture in small batches until pureed. Return to pan and add tamarind, lemon juice, coconut milk and fresh coriander leaves. Stir until heated through before serving.

TIP: An easy way to clarify butter is to melt it in the microwave and chill into refrigerator until butter rises to top and firms up. Discard liquids in the bottom of the container.

Chicken Mulligatawny Soup

1/2 c. chopped onion

2 stalks celery, chopped

1 carrot, diced

1/4 c. butter

1-1/2 T. all purpose flour

1-1/2 t. curry powder

4 c. chicken broth

1/2 apple, cored and chopped

1/4 c. white rice

1 skinless, boneless chicken breast half, cubed

Salt to taste

Ground black pepper to taste

1 pinch dried thyme

1/2 c. heavy cream, heated

Sauté onions, celery, carrot, and butter in a large soup pot. Add flour and curry, and cook 5 more minutes. Add chicken stock, mix well, and bring to a boil. Simmer about 1/2 hour. Add apple, rice, chicken, salt, pepper, and thyme. Simmer 15-20 minutes, or until rice is done. Add hot cream just before serving.

For the horseradish aficionados among us, this hardy recipe from Souper Jenny’s of Buckhead (Atlanta) will hit the spot. The AJC gave it a Golden Whisk award and included it in their best recipes of 2009.

Horseradish Cheddar Beer Soup

3 T. olive oil

2 c. chopped onion

2 T. minced garlic

8 T. all-purpose flour

6 c. vegetable stock

1 15-oz. can roasted red peppers, drained and finely chopped

2 12-oz.bottles beer of choice

3 c. (12 oz.) sharp cheddar cheese

2 T. prepared horseradish

Salt and pepper

Chopped parsley, for garnish

In a heavy stockpot over medium-high heat, heat olive oil for 60 seconds. Add onions and sauté 5 minutes or until onions are soft, then add garlic. Cook 5 minutes more, then add flour and cook, stirring often, for additional 5 minutes.

Add stock slowly and stir to make sure all flour is dissolved. Add roasted peppers and beer and bring soup to a boil. Lower heat and simmer soup for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Take off heat, slowly stir in grated cheese and add horseradish, then use an immersion blender to make a smooth soup.

Season to taste with salt and pepper and garnish with chopped parsley. If you plan to freeze this soup, omit the cheese and wait to add when you are ready to serve it.

NOTE: Jenny prefers a dark beer like Guinness but you can use a lighter one if you choose. (The flavor of horseradish is one of the few things I absolutely dislike and I think this recipe would be still be very good if it were omitted.)

Bean soup has been for the daily menu at the U.S. Senate for more than 100 years. There are several stories of how this tradition began but none are corroborated. One story attributes the request to former Senator Knute Nelson of Minnesota and another claims former Idaho Senator, Fred Dubois asked for it to be served daily.

The first recipe is the one used today but the one that follows was also said to have been used at one time. It makes a large quantity but would be good if serving a large group or if you just want to freeze some for later use. It could also be halved for a smaller amount. It’s relatively easy to prepare and you can jazz it up a bit with whatever herbs and spices you like.

Senate Restaurant Bean Soup Recipe

1 gal. hot water

2 lbs Michigan navy beans (small)

1-1/2 lbs. smoked ham hocks

1 onion, chopped

2 T. butter

Salt & Pepper to taste

Wash navy beans and run hot water through them until they are white. Add washed beans and ham hocks to the gallon (4 quarts) of hot water. Cover pot and let simmer for about 3 hours or until beans are tender. Add extra hot water as needed to keep beans and hocks covered during the cooking process.

Remove ham hocks and let them cool enough to handle. Remove meat from bones, dice and return the pot with the beans. Discard bones and fat.

Braise the chopped onion in butter until it is lightly browned before adding to the soup. Before serving, return soup to a boil and season with salt and pepper. Do not season until after dish is fully cooked. Serves 8.

Bean Soup Recipe (for five gallons)

(Variation on Senate Bean Soup)

3 lbs. dried navy beans

2 lb. of ham and a ham bone

1 qt. mashed potatoes

5 onions, chopped

2 stalks of celery, chopped

4 cloves garlic, chopped

Half a bunch of parsley, chopped

Clean the beans, then cook them dry. Add ham, bone and water and bring to a boil. Add potatoes and mix thoroughly. Add chopped vegetables and bring to a boil. Simmer for one hour before serving. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

BLT & Potato Soup

(Bacon, Leek & Potato Soup)

Extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) for drizzling

6 slices lean smoky bacon, chopped into 1/2-inch pieces

3 small celery ribs from the heart, finely chopped

2 small to medium carrots

3 leeks, trimmed of rough tops and roots

1 bay leaf

Salt and pepper

3 medium starchy (like Idaho) potatoes, peeled

2 qt. chicken stock

1 15-oz. can petite diced tomatoes, drained

Fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

Heat a medium soup pot over medium-high heat. Add a small amount of EVOO and the bacon and cook the bacon until brown and crisp.

Remove the bacon to drain on a paper towel-lined plate. Drain all but 2 tablespoons of remaining fat from pot then add the chopped celery.

Lay peeled carrots flat on cutting board. Holding each carrot at the root end, use a vegetable peeler to make long, thin strips. Chop the thin slices into small carrot bits or chips approximately 1/2 inch wide. Add chips to pan with the celery and continue to stir.

Cut leeks lengthwise and then into 1/2-inch half moons. Place dirty slices into colander and run under rushing cold water, separating all the layers so you can wash away all the trapped dirt. When leeks are separated and clean, shake off water and add to celery and carrots. Stir these veggies together, add a bay leaf and season with salt and pepper.

While leeks are cooking the 3-4 minutes it takes for them to wilt, prepare the potatoes. Cut each potato into thirds across. Stand each third upright and slice it thinly so that pieces look like raw potato chips.

Add stock to vegetables and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, add potatoes and tomatoes and cook 8-10 minutes until potatoes are tender and starting to break up a bit.

Stir in bacon and parsley and adjust seasonings to taste. Remove bay leaf and serve immediately with crusty bread, for dunking. One of my favorites whether served by itself or with an old-fashioned grilled cheese sandwich.